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Lala Kundan Lal Gujral created Moti Mahal restaurant near The Red
Fort that grew to a 400 seat restaurant from small beginnings and
bcome a legend in its own lifetime. Opened in 1947 he was also said
to have invented Butter Chicken which became Chicken Tikka Masala
when it was taken to greater heights in Britain.
Kundan Lal Gujral was born in the first decade of the twentieth
century in Chakwal , in undivided Punjab .Having lost his father at
the tender age of ten, had to start looking for avenues to support
the family . Kundan Lal was the first in Peshawar to dig a tandoor
right in the middle of the eatery . Thus, around 1920 , Peshawar was
introduced to the culinary art of Tandoori chicken by legendary
Kundan Lal. This was a runaway success .Soon Kundan was in demand for
the tandoori delicacy at social gathering and wedding feasts where he
would use an improvised tandoor.
He had to flee to India Delhi in 1947 following the partition.
Roaming the streets, he chanced upon an abandoned Thara in Daryaganj
, then considered a newer part of old Delhi where he set up the now
famous Moti Mahal.
Kundan Lal Gujral, a larger-than-life figure whom people still
remember for his immaculate Pathani suits, handlebar moustache, love
for good whisky and the favours he dispensed because of his proximity
to Indira Gandhi, would personally serve his guests. His wife would
begin each day grinding the masalas, a closely guarded secret, that
went into the signature dishes.
Moti Mahal was the first to bake Chicken in a big clay oven - a sight
common across villages for baking bread. It is said a gratifying meal
is the ideal mixture of all three senses - sight, aroma and taste. He
worked with a local man to produce the first restaurant version of
the village tandoor and invented a tandoori spice mix for tandoori
chicken -ground coriander seeds, black pepper and mild red pepper.
Called Murg Makhani in Hindi, Butter Chicken originated in the Moti
Mahal restaurant in Old Delhi. Famed for its Tandoori Chicken, the
cooks there used to recycle the leftover chicken juices in the
marinade trays by adding butter and tomato. This sauce was then
tossed around with the tandoor-cooked chicken pieces and presto -
Butter Chicken was ready! The leftover dish appealed to Delhites and
was quickly lapped up by the rest of the world.
So impressed was India's first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru by
Kundal Lal's dishes that Moti Mahal became a permanent fixture in all
his state banquets. In fact, when the Shah of Iran came on a state
visit to India, the Indian Education Minister Maulana Azad told him
that coming to Delhi without eating at Moti Mahal was like going to
Agra and not seeing the Taj Mahal. So impressed was Nikita Krushchev
with Moti Mahal food that he invited Kundan Lal to have a shop at an
international trade fair in Moscow and after Nehru, his daughter and
then Prime Minister Indira Gandhi continued the relationship with
Moti Mahal. So fascinated was she by the food that at the wedding of
her younger son Sanjay Gandhi, Moti Mahal specialties dominated the dinner.
Grandson Monish Gujral entered the business in 1983 and has since
built the business up to have 33 outlets promoting their specialist
"tandoori trail" cuisine including a branch in London. His
grandfather's signature dishes remain, some additions were made in
the 1970s, some in the 1990s, but people blindly come and order the
Butter Chicken, Maa Ki Dal and Roti. "It is difficult to tell
them to try anything different," he said. Last year Upper crust
magazine voted Monish Gujral`s Motimahal Delux Tandoori Trail
Restaurant in Mumbai Nariaman point in the top ten restautrants of Mumbai. |